So You Think You Want to be a Designer - What's Your Niche?

I teach the Business of Fashion at Emily Griffith Technical College.  Being a technical college, we have lots of folks coming through that are truly interested in being entrepreneurs.  One of the things we take time looking at in my class is - "What is your Niche?"

One of the big problems some designers have is narrowing that down.  "I want to design for all women!" is a common refrain.  Unless you have unlimited money and resources, it's simply not a reality to start a business targeting everyone.  (It's also highly unrealistic even if you are one of those rare people with unlimited resources.)  Even Wal-Mart has a niche - it's in their mission statement - "To give ordinary folks the chance to buy the same things as rich people."

So what, specifically is a niche?  According to About.com: "A niche market is a focused, targetable portion of a market."  See - TARGETABLE is the key.  Without a niche, you can't target to find your customer (and they can't find you).

As I'm always telling my class - it doesn't mean you have to turn away business that doesn't come from your niche!  You do custom alternative culture wedding dresses - someone comes to you to do a very traditional dress - not your niche, but you don't have to say no.  But without the focus of a niche, your marketing message gets lost in the myriad of noise out there and your best potential customers won't be able to find you as easily.

Another way to refine your niche, and your marketing messaging is to research your competition.  I always get the students who say, "I'm so original I don't have any competition!"  They're wrong.  There is competition, you just haven't found them yet.  No, they probably aren't selling exactly the same thing you will design, but they are selling to your target market, at your price point, in your apparel category.  Find them, research them, figure out how you are different than them.  Analyze what they have going for them that you don't - how will you combat that challenge?

This is a very hard business.  Make your start easier by doing your homework.  Research your niche, your customer and your competition.  Even Ralph Lauren started out with a niche line of men's ties!

What is a Tech Pack? You Ask.......And Why Do I Need One?

I've been getting this question a lot lately from newbie designers.  So here's the short of it.....

A Tech Pack is simply a collection of documents (combined into one - an Excel file very typically) that contain all of the specifications and details necessary to produce a particular style.

And yes, you most likely do need one if you're going to produce a style.

AND - here's the long of it..... (the devil's always in the details in this biz, right?)

Do you need a tech pack to produce a first sample of a style?  Maybe.

If you're working with a local patternmaker and/or sample maker - you don't need a tech pack to communicate to them what that style should look like.  You can do that with your drawing of the style, written notes, verbal communication.  What if the patternmaker/sample maker is in another city?  You probably still don't as long as you have good and easy communication directly with them.

What is you're using an overseas factory to produce your first sample?  Yes - you need a tech pack.  You are not communicating directly with the patternmaker or the sewer - you're dealing with your factory liason.  They probably don't know how to sew or make patterns, so you need a tech pack to convey all of the required information so that your sample arrives looking like you expect it to.

NOW - do you need a tech pack to order production from a factory?  Almost certainly.

A tech pack for production is going to be longer, and have more information in it than a tech pack for a sample.  It will contain the specification measurements for each size being produced, the details for all the colorways being produced, etc.

Here's the exception - you may have a local factory that you work with that does not need a tech pack.  They DO need a complete and accurate Sew Guide as well as a Specifications Measurement sheet and colorway information.  In this case, you've essentially filled out two pages of the Tech Pack (Spec Sheet and Colorways) and the rest of the data required is provided in the form of the Sew Guide.

Is there one specific form that everyone uses for a tech pack?  No.  There are lots of similarities, of course, since the type of information required is similar in most instances - but there are about as many different specific forms as there are companies that produce them.

So let's talk about how you might want to set up your own form.....

If we're using Excel, we're going to have multiple tabs - one for each section.  (You may have all or just some of these sections depending on your style)

• Tech Sketch & Measurements
• Measurement Specifications
• BOM (Bill of Materials) & Costing
• Fabric & Colorway Guide
• Fabric & Knit Structure Guide
• Trim Guide
• Seam & Stitching Guide
• Comments Log

Now let's break it down.....

Tech Sketch & Measurements

Here's an example from a design I did recently for a private label client.  You've got a technical flat sketch front and back.  You've got specific garment measurements that the factory is supposed to achieve.  For measurements that could be confusing - you've got detailed out drawings of how to take those measurements.  You also see lots of blanks - When you get the sample back - you measure it to see how the factory did - did they hit your required measurements?  When you get fit samples before production - are those measuring as they are supposed to?

Measurement Specifications
This is your Spec Sheet that you would provide to your factory even if you don't give them a whole tech pack.  It gives key measurements for each size being produced - CB Length, Chest Width, Elastic Waist Finish Circumference, etc.

BOM & Costing
This is just your costing sheet and bill of materials.  Nothing more, nothing less.

Fabric & Colorway Guide

Here's an example from another style on a fabric & colorway guide - In this case the factory is responsible for sourcing the fabric from the fabric supplier - so they have all the information they need to procure the correct fabric.  Since this pant comes in two colors - it also shows them in both a black and white map and a color representation - they can see that the floral is on the waistband, not the body of the pant and that the pink pant comes with a pink waistband and the blue pant comes with the blue waistband, not the other way around.

Fabric & Knit Structure Guide

This is really just a Fabric Guide for doing seamless garments.  Requires more information because in addition to designing the style, you're also designing the fabric at the same time.

Trim Guide
Just like your fabric guide, but focused on the trim - sourcing, placement, colors, etc.

Seam & Stitching Guide
You may or may not need this.  If you're working in a more sophisticated country like the US or China, you probably don't.  If you're working in a less sophisticated country or factory - you might.  If you have highly technical clothing - you may want to specify the ISO stitch number and required stitches per inch.

Comments Log
Exactly what you think it would be.  Every time you get a sample - here's where you log your comments on it.  It's your paper trail of development of the style, from first sample to production approval.

So - there it is in a nutshell.  Complicated?  Not really.  Very detailed?  Exactly.  Very time consuming to develop?  You bet.  The better your tech pack is, the smoother your development and production will go.

Fall Sorrows

Yes, the leaves are turning - all shades of brilliant yellow and orange and red, fading to brown, fading to dead.  Fall brings heavy sorrows, funerals, waiting for funerals, and reminders of oh so many, too many funerals, standing at gravesites for the past two years.  And I am tired.  Oh, so tired.  Too many funerals, too many gravesites, too much loss.

And yet, I look up, and there are stars.  Too many to count.  Is this the blessing in the midst of all?  The grace only seen in the shadow of tragedy?  I don't know.  I just feel sad.  I just feel loss.  Yet, is there the shine of grace upon it all?  The grace shows only when you look for it.  The grace of my mother calling me to say good bye - without either one of us knowing it..... the grace of a body imprisoned being set free....the grace of....sometimes I don't know.

I am trying to be thankful - thankful before the miracle, thankful precedes the miracle, thankful in the everyday, thankful in the blessing of the small grace. But tonight it eludes me, and the loss and the pain eclipse the thankful.  Yet, I do understand - thanks precedes all - I want to feel it, but in the absence of that, I will DO it.  Thank you God, for life, for friends, for mothers, for aunts, for uncles, for godfathers, for friends.  I will miss them all.  But thank you for having a time with them, thank you for sharing them with me, thank you for allowing them into my life - for they and their influence will never leave me and leave me a fuller existence for having had them in my life.  I do entrust them into your loving care and thank you that I will be with them again one day - a day of rejoicing and reunion in glory.

I still cry - but thank you.

Spring Cleaning

Spring has sprung for certain here in the mountains.  The hummingbirds are emptying a feeder a day, the bunnies are growing like weeds

the deer have their soft fuzzy antlers, the horses have finally shed out.

It's time for spring cleaning!  The paddock is half done - one more weekend with a tractor should finish the job.  the fire mitigation work has begun and will continue for the rest of the month before we hit the hot summer fire danger season.  Spring cleaning is going on inside as well.  

The past year has been challenging, and I really see this spring as a time to clean out all that needs to be removed - beyond the normal spring cleanup.  It's a time to shift gears, re-evaluate priorities, remove what is not working.  Declutter and simplify.

As part of that - we're having a Spring Cleaning Sale - on all our merchandise.  Just shop on our website - enter the coupon code SPRINGCLEAN for 75% off at checkout.  We'll be adding new styles also.  Looking for even more savings?  We've got lots of samples we're selling off - styles starting at $5.  We're setting up a sample sale soon - but don't want to wait?  Contact us and you can come shop at our offices in Denver by appointment.  Spring, summer and fall merchandise - sizes 6 months to size 14 tween.  Mostly girl apparel, but we do have some super cute things for boys in the 6 month to 7 range.

Enjoy your summer - declutter your life - hug your kids - kiss your husband - send up a prayer of thanks.  

Salu,

Holli

The Bunny Escapades!

Spring has sprung and spring cleanup around the ranch brought a few surprises!

The tractor dug up some bunnies.  I'm sorry to say that the nest was destroyed, but 3 managed to hop quickly to safety.  We went back and started digging by hand and managed to dig up another one.  The kids were super excited.  With the nest wrecked, mama won't come back and with a hail storm looming, they quickly found a home in my laundry basket in the sunroom.  Princess and I made a mad dash to the store to pick up a bottle and bunny milk.  On the way, we decided to name the furry little ones.....let's see.....what do you name 4 bunnies?  Flopsy, Mopsy, Cottontail and Peter of course! Then the phone rang, "managed to find another one!"  Rejoicing, then the realization that our naming scheme had been compromised.  #5 became Oswald.

They've become my constant companions for the next few weeks.  Even though mama bunny only feeds them twice a day, we know they don't nurse from the bottle as well as they would mama so we've got four feedings a day going to keep their strength up.  Seems to be working because they're already becoming much more active.  Hand rearing wild babies is always a risky business, I keep reminding the kids (myself too I suppose).  But we're dedicated to doing our best and enjoying them while we can.  5 more weeks and we'll help them find their bunny friends and their own nest outdoors.

bottle feeding a bunny is no easy task!

sleepy bunnies...sweet dreams

bunny pile!

LamanBlu and Studio 9720!

Thanks to Kelsey and Merida for a fun interview!  Just love what these girls are doing to highlight Denver Fashion.  The Denver fashion scene is a fast growing and exciting place to be.  The people are what make it so special, and Kelsey and Merida are a part of that.

Check out their blog and their interview with LamanBlu!

Studio 9720 Blog

Feeling Blu?

Blu Thoughts:  bluebirds, robins eggs, spring.  The impossibly blue Colorado sky.  The crystal clear blu of the Caribbean sea, the deepest blu of the Cayman Trench.  I love blue!  (So does Pantone)

Who is LamanBlu?

LamanBlu is a feeling.  LamanBlu is a twirly tomboy.   LamanBlu is a little girl, who is a princess, because all little girls are princesses.  LamanBlu is a little boy who is a prince, because all little boys are princes.  LamanBlu values having fun.  LamanBlu kids look beautiful when they are climbing trees.  LamanBlu is a fairy tale.  LamanBlu gives back to improve kids lives.  LamanBlu loves the ocean, and marvels at the majesty under its surface.  LamanBlu loves the mountains and the adventures that can be had there.  LamanBlu values friends, and fun, and family, more than it values clothing.

So You Think You Want to be a Fashion Designer - What's Your Vision?

It's one of the first subjects we cover in my Business of Fashion class at Emily Griffith Technical College.  C'mon - even Ralph Lauren didn't start off making men's, women's and kid's clothing, linens, jewelry, sunglasses, dishes, shoes.........he started off making men's ties - ONLY!

Most people start out thinking about a product they want to make - great - but if you want to build a brand around it, you need to dig deeper.

A great place to start is to look inside yourself.  What's important to you?

1. What do you enjoy doing most?
2. What do you need to do on a regular basis to feel fullfilled in your work?
3. What are your most important values?
4. What are your strengths?
5. What are your weaknesses?

OK - you're off to a good start.  Now start thinking a little more externally.....

1. Create a vision statement for your business that incorporates your personal vision
2. Now create a mission statement.  (Wal-Mart's Mission Statement is: "To give ordinary folk the chance to buy the same things as rich people.")  Your mission statement can be long or short to start - but it should encompass the overriding philosophy under which your company/brand will make decisions.

Obviously, there is a lot more detail that goes into creating the vision for your brand and communicating that to your customer so that they understand and can identify with your great product!

Here's how it might look once you have it all fleshed out:

Life is NOT an emergency!

Sometimes it feels like it is - too much to do, a list so long I can't even read through it all.  Trying to keep up with the busy things that scream, demanding attention.  Fire fighting.  The urgent over the important.  It keeps you in the weeds instead of above the clouds.

I've been guilty of acting like life is an emergency lately - not enough time, too much to do.  I teach the Business of Fashion at Emily Griffith Technical College (among my - how many other jobs?).  I was relating some of my production issues with one of my factories in China to my students recently.  Some of them were wondering why I was having to deal with those problems since it was clearly an error made by the factory.  I answered, "because it is my company so ultimately my responsibility".  It's true.  It is my responsibility, and I do have too much for any one person to do.  So how do I act, and not react?  How do I stay above the clouds and not down in the weeds?

I tell my students, "It's not about what happens to you, it's not about what you are dealt, it's about how you respond to it."  So how do I respond to this urgent list of too much?

It's a choice.  "Life is dessert - too brief to hurry" says Ann Voskamp.

I'll fail again soon, maybe even later today.  But this morning, I choose to relish the dessert.  I choose to stay above the clouds.  I choose my attention to be focused on the important, rather than just the urgent.

Have a blessed day.

So, You Think You want to be a Fashion Designer? - Fittings

Do you know how to do a proper fitting?  Sure, plunk the garment you made on someone to make sure it looks good, right?  WRONG!

A proper industry fitting entails much more than that.  In fact, it starts way back before you even start working on a design.  Want to know the steps?  Well, here you go.

1. Determine your ideal customer body type
2. Determine your size range
3. Select a "base size" or "sample size" at the center of your size range
4. Determine what that exact model's body measurements should be
5. Find a fit model to match those measurements
6. Make your base style(s) for that fit model
7. Fit those base style(s) on your fit model / make corrections/alterations
8. Remake your base styles as many times as necessary to achieve a perfect fit
9. NOW you're ready to make your first pattern/first sample for a style you want to offer
10. Using your base patterns/styles, make your first pattern/sample for your fashion style
11. Measure your first sample to make sure it matches your pattern/specifications given for your pattern (yes, things can go wrong at this point due to poor patternmaking, poor sewing or even just fabric characteristics
12. Fit your sample on THE SAME FIT MODEL
13. Make corrections based upon design changes, fit corrections, allowances for fabric characteristics, etc.
14. Do this as many times as necessary to achieve the fit and style you want.

A little more involved than you thought?

A couple of notes - 

1. a dress form is a great tool, but it does not substitute for a fit model. Dress forms do not move.  You will find out all kinds of important information when your model tries to walk, sit, bend over, etc. in your garment.
2. so now you want to make the same style in a totally different fabric?  start over at step 10.  Do not assume that a fabric with very different characteristics will fit the same way as your last fabric (ex - knit vs woven OR even cotton knit vs viscose knit)

If you want to be perceived as a professional, act like one!  Happy Fitting!

(Guess what changed on this style after the model fitting?  Moved the applique down an inch - can't tell it needed that from the dress form!)

Hang Ten Gold - In It's a KidsWorld Magazine!

Awesome article - check it out!
Kidsworld Magazine

And for our current Hang Ten Gold spring collection - you'll see that we are right on trend with the Tropicalia Color trend - fun in the sun!
Tropicalia

Spring 2014 Fashion Trend Review - Color!

The sun is shining, spring is just around the corner.  Ready for a wrap-up of the must have trends for spring?  Here we go!

Color:

1. Blue - takes prominence this season, reflecting our new enchantment with oceanic worlds, turquoise recalls the shallow warm seas of life.
2. Pink and Orange - warm colors including pink and orange represent life in the sea, including coral and sponges.
3. Yellow Greens - evoke sunny feelings of citrus, lime and all things divine.

Pantone, the global authority on color - suggest that a key color pairing is a bright floral pink to provide warmth and energy and help set the stage for orange, an optimistic, spontaneous hue.  Together, they create a captivating vision, much like the setting summer sun.

Happy spring - keep your disposition sunny!

Hang Ten is finally back! Shipping to stores near you now!

The iconic surf brand is back!  Hang Ten was the inventor of the first board short and the original surf lifestyle brand.  Some things are worth the wait, and some things are worth their wait in Gold - Hang Ten Gold is for the discerning lifestyle customer who values a coastal aesthetic.

Casual sportswear, swimwear, rashguards for girls sizes 3m - 16.

The debut collection for spring/summer 2014 has started shipping to specialty stores - it's time to shop!

You can also buy from our website - www.LamanBlu.com

Happy Spring - Happy Shopping!

Footprints in the Sand

I had to share one of my favorite poems with you today....

One night I dreamed I was walking along   the beach with the Lord.

Many scenes from my life flashed across the sky.

In each scene I noticed footprints in the sand.

Sometimes there were two sets of footprints,

other times there were one set of footprints.

This bothered me because I noticed

that during the low periods of my life,

when I was suffering from

anguish, sorrow or defeat,

I could see only one set of footprints.

So I said to the Lord,

"You promised me Lord,

that if I followed you,

you would walk with me always.

But I have noticed that during

the most trying periods of my life

there have only been one

set of footprints in the sand.

Why, when I needed you most,

you have not been there for me?"

The Lord replied,

"The times when you have

seen only one set of footprints,

is when I carried you."

Mary Stevenson http://www.footprints-inthe-sand.com/index.php?page=Poem/Poem.php

Have a blessed day!

Press Release - Hang Ten Gold Autumn / Winter 2014 Collection

Hang Ten Gold in Kidsworld Magazine!

Granted, we have a foot of snow on the ground and the thermometer bottomed out at 10 below this morning, nonetheless it's sunny and I'm thinking about spring!

Hang Ten Gold spring collections starts shipping to retailers this week so everyone in a sunny mood get ready to start shopping!  Hit up boutiques in your town to see the new styles - bright colors rule the spring/summer 2014 season and we've got purple and orange wave dyed stripes in great t's, board shorts, hoodies and dresses.  Feeling floral?  Turq/Lime and Pink/Orange Hawaiian prints cover dresses and trim the softest french terry hoodies and skinny sweats.  Ready for a vacation to warmer climates?  Pick up some swimwear and sun protection rash guards to match your dresses for a very fashionable beach day!

Once the retailers have all received their merchandise, we'll release the collection direct to the public - you can pre-order now on our website, www.LamanBlu.com  (special treat - enter coupon code HTGS14 at checkout through February for special savings!)

Kidsworld Magazine is showing off some of the new Hang Ten Gold styles - check it out! Kidsworld Magazine

We also made a splash on their "Fashion Hot Picks" page! Fashion Hot Picks

Check it out, warm yourself with a cup of hot tea and thoughts of the spring to come!

Cheers,
Holli

Yahoo Voices Review of LamanBlu, by Theresa Pickett

Blogger for Yahoo Voices and mom, Theresa Pickett recently wrote a review of LamanBlu!

Who's Theresa?  She's a published blogger with her own blog (www.theresasreviews.com), and contributions to Model Life Magazine, AOL Shopping, Yahoo Voices, LIVESTRONG, Mane Dish, New York Woman Magazine and Trails (among others).  And she has the cutest kids ever!

Theresa's Girls in LamanBlu

What did Theresa think about the LamanBlu dresses she reviewed?

"Regarding the clothing's comfortability, my children loved the design, which had plenty of give to encourage movement and play. As I analyzed the product's design, I appreciated that the colorful fabric was soft and light. I dressed my youngest daughter in the pink dress when I had a babysitter for the night, and I heard that she had a lovely time playing without complaints when I was gone. My older daughter wore her dress on a trip to the grocery store and the mall. I could tell that my children were comfortable in the clothes, and I liked that they looked nice as well as age appropriate."

To read the whole article, visit:  Yahoo News

Thanks for the great review Theresa!

Want to buy the dress Theresa reviewed for your daughter?  LamanBlu's Online Store  It's available in sizes from 6 months up to age 7 and in Aqua or Hot Pink.  As a special thanks, enter the coupon code TR1 at checkout for special savings!

Best,
Holli

So, you think you want to work in the fashion industry.....

I get to have lots of interaction with young (and sometimes not so young) folks who want to get into the fashion industry.  My work with the Denver Design Incuabator (www.denverdesignincubator.com) and Emily Griffith Technical College (www.emilygriffith.edu) in the Fashion Design program provide me lots of opportunity to work with people just starting out in this industry.  It's always fun to work with people with fresh ideas, lots of ambition, their excitement of a new adventure.  I've been in this business more than 20 years now and frankly, it's easy to get jaded.  Working with these up and coming designers, patternmakers, creatives helps me to stay refreshed and allows me to give of what I have learned over the past couple decades.

Want some tips?

Work Hard!  You may be talented, but unless you put that talent to hard work, it isn't enough.  This is a tough business.  Be prepared to work 12 hour days (often).

Work Smart!  Don't think you have to re-invent the wheel necessarily, but do know why things work the way they do in the fashion industry and be prepared to make waves - but always be smart about WHY you are going to do something outside the norm.  (Rules are made to be broken in this business - you just better know why you are breaking them.)

Be a Student - ALWAYS!  There is way to much in this business for anyone to know everything.  Always be learning and improving your skills.

Let it roll off your back!  This is a tough business (I said that already, didn't I?)  It's hard for creative people to hear their work criticized.  It's also critical!  This is how you will grow as a designer.

Some good articles:
http://www.buffalonews.com/business/buffalo-state-students-hear-tips-on-finding-a-job-in-fashion-industry-20131120

http://www.topuniversities.com/blog/careers-fashion-industry-how-get-started

Just remember - this is a fun business, but it is a business - which means people vying for real money, growing corporations, etc.  It's not just about the clothes - it's about the bottom line.  Be prepared to outwork everyone else, pay attention to detail, pay attention to the quality of your work, pay attention to the bottom line ($$$).  (Oh yea, and have fun!)

Cheers,
Holli

It's a work day at the Denver Design Incubator

Tuesday - one of my favorite days of the week.  I get to volunteer and staff DDI on Tuesdays.  I just adore being around all the up and coming designers in Denver.  Such creativity, such energy, such talent!  I always leave Tuesdays in good spirits.

If you haven't heard about the Denver Design Incubator - you should check it out!  www.DenverDesignIncubator.com 

The Denver Design Incubator (DDI) is dedicated to providing resources, education and professional development to the local fashion community that will enhance and support a thriving, profitable and sustainable fashion industry.
The best part of DDI is our collaborative community — this is a space where we share knowledge, lend a hand, and give feedback. Some are just starting out; others are established movers-and-shakers — and that’s what makes our community unique.

Pantone's Spring 2014 Fashion Report

January is here, cold but bright - are you ready to start thinking about spring fashions?

We work on a very future schedule in the fashion industry.  I actually wrote "2015" on a check this week!

Spring 2014 is looking forward for most of the public, but it's a look backwards for us.  Pantone puts out a great consumer report to reflect the most important colors of the season, and shows how some of the major designers are using them in their collections.  Want to take a look?

Pantone Spring 2014 Fashion Report

LamanBlu spring items will be up for sale on our website soon.  You can already pre-order some of our Hang Ten Gold collection, including sportswear and swimwear.  www.LamanBlu.com

Happy Spring, Happy Shopping! (oh, BTW - gift to you - use coupon code HTGS14 when you check out to get 35% off between now and the end of February)

Life at 9,000 Feet - Happy New Year

Happy New Year!  I am so glad it is finally 2014 - the past year and a half have been tough for me personally.  With my mother's very unexpected passing in the fall of 2013, nothing has seemed right to me for a long time.  I don't really think I miss her any less, but I guess I've sort of made an intellectual decision to purposefully move forward.  I sort of feel like I've been living in a reactionary state, and I'm just done with that.

I think it helps that it's finally snowing!  The past two years haven't brought much snow to our life at 9,000 feet in the Rocky Mountains.  I sort of feel like if it's not going to snow - what's the point of living here?  Even with the cold, the snow brings a freshness and a real sense of newness to our new year.

So, in the spirit of Happy New Year, and life at 9,000 feet - here's a new year's wish for you - may your view be unobstructed, your life filled with love, and may you and your family have a healthy and happy 2014!