A Tech Pack is simply a collection of documents (combined into one - an Excel file very typically) that contain all of the specifications and details necessary to produce a particular style.
And yes, you most likely do need one if you're going to produce a style.
AND - here's the long of it..... (the devil's always in the details in this biz, right?)
Do you need a tech pack to produce a first sample of a style? Maybe.
If you're working with a local patternmaker and/or sample maker - you don't need a tech pack to communicate to them what that style should look like. You can do that with your drawing of the style, written notes, verbal communication. What if the patternmaker/sample maker is in another city? You probably still don't as long as you have good and easy communication directly with them.
What is you're using an overseas factory to produce your first sample? Yes - you need a tech pack. You are not communicating directly with the patternmaker or the sewer - you're dealing with your factory liason. They probably don't know how to sew or make patterns, so you need a tech pack to convey all of the required information so that your sample arrives looking like you expect it to.
NOW - do you need a tech pack to order production from a factory? Almost certainly.
A tech pack for production is going to be longer, and have more information in it than a tech pack for a sample. It will contain the specification measurements for each size being produced, the details for all the colorways being produced, etc.
Here's the exception - you may have a local factory that you work with that does not need a tech pack. They DO need a complete and accurate Sew Guide as well as a Specifications Measurement sheet and colorway information. In this case, you've essentially filled out two pages of the Tech Pack (Spec Sheet and Colorways) and the rest of the data required is provided in the form of the Sew Guide.
Is there one specific form that everyone uses for a tech pack? No. There are lots of similarities, of course, since the type of information required is similar in most instances - but there are about as many different specific forms as there are companies that produce them.
So let's talk about how you might want to set up your own form.....
If we're using Excel, we're going to have multiple tabs - one for each section. (You may have all or just some of these sections depending on your style)
- Tech Sketch & Measurements
- Measurement Specifications
- BOM (Bill of Materials) & Costing
- Fabric & Colorway Guide
- Fabric & Knit Structure Guide
- Trim Guide
- Seam & Stitching Guide
- Comments Log
Now let's break it down.....
Tech Sketch & Measurements
Here's an example from a design I did recently for a private label client. You've got a technical flat sketch front and back. You've got specific garment measurements that the factory is supposed to achieve. For measurements that could be confusing - you've got detailed out drawings of how to take those measurements. You also see lots of blanks - When you get the sample back - you measure it to see how the factory did - did they hit your required measurements? When you get fit samples before production - are those measuring as they are supposed to?
Measurement Specifications
This is your Spec Sheet that you would provide to your factory even if you don't give them a whole tech pack. It gives key measurements for each size being produced - CB Length, Chest Width, Elastic Waist Finish Circumference, etc.
BOM & Costing
This is just your costing sheet and bill of materials. Nothing more, nothing less.
Fabric & Colorway Guide
Here's an example from another style on a fabric & colorway guide - In this case the factory is responsible for sourcing the fabric from the fabric supplier - so they have all the information they need to procure the correct fabric. Since this pant comes in two colors - it also shows them in both a black and white map and a color representation - they can see that the floral is on the waistband, not the body of the pant and that the pink pant comes with a pink waistband and the blue pant comes with the blue waistband, not the other way around.
Fabric & Knit Structure Guide
This is really just a Fabric Guide for doing seamless garments. Requires more information because in addition to designing the style, you're also designing the fabric at the same time.
Trim Guide
Just like your fabric guide, but focused on the trim - sourcing, placement, colors, etc.
Seam & Stitching Guide
You may or may not need this. If you're working in a more sophisticated country like the US or China, you probably don't. If you're working in a less sophisticated country or factory - you might. If you have highly technical clothing - you may want to specify the ISO stitch number and required stitches per inch.
Comments Log
Exactly what you think it would be. Every time you get a sample - here's where you log your comments on it. It's your paper trail of development of the style, from first sample to production approval.
So - there it is in a nutshell. Complicated? Not really. Very detailed? Exactly. Very time consuming to develop? You bet. The better your tech pack is, the smoother your development and production will go.
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